Let's get to it. Rewind to Ko Chang.

So. Where were we? After our elaborate scam booking to Chang Mai, we canceled the whole idea and decided to head where life seemed simpler. We hopped on a 5 hour bus journey to Ko Chang.

Thai roadside rest stop meals win

ferry journey.

First view of Ko Chang

Upon arriving at the ferry, we were told to book our accommodations in advance & went with the cheapest available option (300 baht/$10). It must have been the only room of its kind around -- the grounds were beautiful at Sai Khao Inn and I believe all the other cabins were legitimate (and more than 300 baht.)
Ours was not worth much more:





 Our budget room happened to be at "White Sand Beach", the more expensive resort area of the island:

Dinnertime beach fire show.

(39?)The guy on the right dropped his fire often, which seemed dangerous

 

























After one night & delicious free breakfast we relocated to the cheaper and more isolated "Bailan Bay" area.

This journey further south on the island cost us an additional 100baht and another terrifying taxi ride (them hills are steep and curvy! Plus you sit in the back of a pick up truck on a bench holding on to a bar for dear life).

After being dropped in the "Bailan Bay" area with no reservations, we wandered in the heat until we found the lady-boys that run Bailan Hut. Lady-boys are quite common in Thailand,  I've heard they have the largest number of transsexuals in the world -- they certainly have the most convincing/attractive ones. While at our White Sand beach cabin, we watched a special on Thai lady-boys and how impressively beautiful they always seem to be.
We loved the staff at Bailan Hut. My favorite gal had the best response to everything, no matter what was said: "Can we stay one more night?" "Shu-ah. No Probrem." "You have such an adorable puppy! I miss mine back at home." "Shu-ah. No Probrem."

Quite the restaurant view at Bailan Hut.

One of the 9 or so cats at Bailan Hut

Hut with free computer & geckos

The head gal's pup. Awesome.

The snorkeling boat trip on Ko Chang was well worth it. They picked us up at Bailan Hut and drove us to the giant boat. The crew was amusing: "We have pills if you need to vomit, you know, vomit?" and "Errybody! If you sink and drown, I dive down to save you like Supa-man! I am Supa-man."
The boat stopped at 4 islands, the first two of which were great and the second two essentially resorts for swimming less than coral and fish life. They fed us delicious curry, noodles and fruit, plus I ate my first shrimp. There is video proof of my squeamish removal of the head, etc. I didn't like it, as it turns out.

After the journey ended, I discovered a strange new leg marking which google advised could be "fire corral":

 

 Thankfully, it didn't amount to anything life altering. Although becoming a half-ocean-creature-half-superhuman-hero wouldn't have been too bad.

Overall, Ko Chang was quite relaxing. Pretty built up and a bit litter-y, but beautiful. We found a strange art yard:

 

There were cute dogs around, which I enjoyed:

The best mutt ever (at the rest stop on the road to Bangkok):






Ko Chang was a lovely 2 and a half days of our journey.
Some of the most exciting moments of the trip -- including a glimpse of an island full of wild monkeys.

Looking back. With Pictures. [Days 1 & 2, Bangkok]

Bangkok, Day 1. You know the story. Here's some pictures to go along with the tale:

This is a Wat outside our first guest house. It thrilled us. We didn't realize they were everywhere.

I was carted here by naughty Mr. Tuk-Tuk Man.
I thought things were going splendidly.

Bad. Omen.

So, Mr. Tuk-Tuk Man took us to a couple of pretty spots.
Then many awkward tailor and ruby shops. (Not pictured)

"Lucky Buddha". This is interesting. 
There was a charming 4th scammer (we've realized) planted in this room.
He saw the list of scams we were given & encouraged us they were the places to go. 
TAT especially. He seemed to be a lovely man. A "teacher". Un. Lucky.

2 tailor shops, 1 travel agency scam and 2 gem store scam attempts,
then Mr. Tuk-Tuk Man left us here. 
"400 steps" mountain view. When we returned for our ride back and to pay him, 
Tuk-Tuk went poof. 
Never to be seen again.

... something doesn't feel right?

Contemplating the day..

We figured it out.

Bangkok, Day 2.

We were pretty bitter from the recent scam. We learned saying, "Hey, stranger! Wanna know how long I been here? Just flew in! No clue what's goin' on! But golly, am I tired, confused and excited!" Is dangerous in this town.

Just about every Tuk-Tuk "gangster" (we found a warning sign all about them in our guest house the next day..) asked us the same question daily. Word to the wise, if you ever travel there: you've been there "for two weeks" from the start.

So our second day, we grumpily refused all transit offers and walked the city. It turned out surprisingly well, we made it to Wat Pho:

 

And then across the river to Wat Arun, which we climbed. And it really was much steeper and scarier than the pictures can prove. Terrifying. Really.

I couldn't have climbed it if I were wearing what these ladies wore.

 

And a river taxi to China town. Which scared me and took my breathe away (literally, you can't breathe there. I wished I had a mask on like everyone else. Bad. Air.)

Then the river taxi back to the hotel. Actually, as close as we could get... the river taxi lady forced us off early. It kept going closer, but we had to walk for some reason.

There you have it. Day 1 & 2, photographic evidence.

Home.

I won!


The whole experience alters in my mind daily. It was pretty extreme.
I'm planning to write city specific blogs with pictures soon.
Also, my opinions of the travel as a whole and "backpacking".

Just you wait.

Nearing the end..

Still alive! I have many blog updates on details, opinions, reflections, pictures, words of wisdom etc that I look forward to posting upon my arrival home (tomorrow). When internet is no longer so expensive and difficult to use.

What a strange, long, educational, unique and interesting month I've had.

More to follow. So soon. From the other side of things.

Battambang

Our last stop in Cambodia. The "Bamboo Train" is really fast and bumpy. Today, kayaking (hopefully). Tomorrow, Bangkok (hopefully). Then south to the water and the fishes. Then.. home.

Phnom Penh pictures

 Though we've already traveled from Phnom Penh to Kratie to Siem Reap, these are the only Cambodia pictures I have time to share for now.
A few from PHNOM PENH:

Tuol Sleng. Unspeakably moving.

"?" This tuk-tuk has American pride... I like it.

Cambodia

After a 32 hour journey south, we've found what we were looking for. Cambodia!
We started in Phnom Penh, which was quite powerful. The Tuol Sleng museum is unbelievable.
We continued on (an 8 hour bus) to Kratie, a village near the spot of the Mekong where some of the 80 remaining Irrawaddy dolphins reside. We rented bikes and rode an hour and a half through the village to the dolphins. Pretty spectacular. The dolphins are very shy, but we were lucky to spot quite a few. Wonderful.
So. We've found the sun (and it's found our skin... nice, rosy cheeks). Soon we'll be at Angkhor Wat.
I'll be in touch.
I miss you Americans.