Bus #1: Exact same bus straight to Hoi An. Same seats, same horn, same route, same rest stop, same everything.
Bus #2: Picks us up 5 minutes after drop off in Hoi An. 6:30pm - 11:30 AM... yikes.
Bus # 3: We don't have our ticket, as we didn't know there was a bus #3 and we thought the bus man on #2 took it. The bus-man #3 won't let us on bus #3. "No way! Impossible! Must have ticket!" We were almost stranded. ...Kevin found the ticket.
Bus #3 11:30 am - 9pm. Saigon. Whew. We made it! Nice scenery along the way, and after gloomy chilly rain and grey skies we've again found the sunshine! This is what we flew around the world away from Chi-town for.
Today, (in 10 minutes or so) we hop on another 6 hour bus to Phnom Penh, Cambodia. After our cheap ant infested and (it's true) bat-occupied hotel, we're ready for it!
I love the sun.
Best to all.
Sunday, January 30, 2011
Friday, January 28, 2011
"staying flexible"
So, that's what they all say: Be flexible. And that's just what we're attempting to do.
After lovely Hoi An (we were rightfully afraid to leave!) we made the same journey we'd already made, back to Hue. When we stopped in Hue (in the pouring rain) the first time on our journey south, we continued immediately on to Hoi An knowing we'd have to come back the 4 hours north to catch a bus into Laos.
Once we arrived back in Hue, we realized it apparently never stops pouring rain here this time of year. It hasn't. At all. Wet cold clothes are an issue when you only have one full outfit.
Long story short, we spent an entire day wandering through the cold pouring rain trying to find a bank that would exchange the large sum of Vietnamese dong we took out into dollars. We needed a large sum of dollars to purchase our visas at the Laos border and to spend at our arrival. After stopping in to a dozen or so locations all over town, we were finally told "nowhere in the entire country" would sell us their US dollars.
The internet at our guesthouse was down all day as well, and we were unable to research if we'd be able to get across the border and through the country (that has no ATMs/banks, where we were headed) with only the currency we had. So. We didn't buy our ticket into Laos.
When we woke up the next morning, we were still hoping to find our solution, or just buy the next bus ticket and hope for the best (though we'd been told the journey there could be tricky.) However, there were no more buses leaving for the next two days, which would put us in too much of a bind.
We are ready for the next country, so we purchased a ticket all the way to Saigon to cross into Cambodia. This means a 23 hour bus trip. Yep, longer than the airplane ride across the world. Even better, where's our stop for dinner break 4-5 hours into the journey? Back in Hoi An. We'll have made this exact bus trip 3 times, and really had no need to be in this wet city when we could have stayed in that happy little town and taken a shorter (cheaper) bus trip south from there. Argh.
It doesn't help things that Kevin has admitted he hates this trip. It hasn't been easy.
Here's to the second half... one country shy of the goal and a bit more drenched in rain and complications than originally hoped.
Here's to staying flexible and doing the best we can. :)
After lovely Hoi An (we were rightfully afraid to leave!) we made the same journey we'd already made, back to Hue. When we stopped in Hue (in the pouring rain) the first time on our journey south, we continued immediately on to Hoi An knowing we'd have to come back the 4 hours north to catch a bus into Laos.
Once we arrived back in Hue, we realized it apparently never stops pouring rain here this time of year. It hasn't. At all. Wet cold clothes are an issue when you only have one full outfit.
Long story short, we spent an entire day wandering through the cold pouring rain trying to find a bank that would exchange the large sum of Vietnamese dong we took out into dollars. We needed a large sum of dollars to purchase our visas at the Laos border and to spend at our arrival. After stopping in to a dozen or so locations all over town, we were finally told "nowhere in the entire country" would sell us their US dollars.
The internet at our guesthouse was down all day as well, and we were unable to research if we'd be able to get across the border and through the country (that has no ATMs/banks, where we were headed) with only the currency we had. So. We didn't buy our ticket into Laos.
When we woke up the next morning, we were still hoping to find our solution, or just buy the next bus ticket and hope for the best (though we'd been told the journey there could be tricky.) However, there were no more buses leaving for the next two days, which would put us in too much of a bind.
We are ready for the next country, so we purchased a ticket all the way to Saigon to cross into Cambodia. This means a 23 hour bus trip. Yep, longer than the airplane ride across the world. Even better, where's our stop for dinner break 4-5 hours into the journey? Back in Hoi An. We'll have made this exact bus trip 3 times, and really had no need to be in this wet city when we could have stayed in that happy little town and taken a shorter (cheaper) bus trip south from there. Argh.
It doesn't help things that Kevin has admitted he hates this trip. It hasn't been easy.
Here's to the second half... one country shy of the goal and a bit more drenched in rain and complications than originally hoped.
Here's to staying flexible and doing the best we can. :)
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
More scenes from Hoi An
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| Kevin is now convinced Jim Morrison is alive and well. |
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| Custom tailor shops everywhere. I may have indulged myself a dress.. |
Tuesday, January 25, 2011
"Hello, you buy something!"
Hoi An is lovely. Really, really lovely. Yes, it is completely full of tourists (as the snooty travelers scoff). Because it's great. The architecture is amazing, there are delicious restaurants everywhere you turn, beautiful shops, happy friendly dogs (they don't cook them around here) and friendly people (mostly smiling and calling "Hello, you buy something!" from their doorway).
We're reluctant to leave and continue on the roughest transit through Laos and Cambodia, but we should soon enough. There's only so long you should allow yourself to stare at pretty clothes and drink coffee on the riverside...
PS: The last bus ride was horrific. "Sleeper buses" did not agree with us. There were two "beds" left in the back row when we boarded, both of which (and a third) taken up by an extremely large, irritable and intimidating Asian man. He refused to move over for us when we woke him, so after another bed was emptied I had no choice but to leave the scrunched back row to Kevin and three strangers. Of course, the journey took 4 hours longer than expected. Then we boarded a second bus later that afternoon, the driver of which insisted (as is the custom) on honking the loudest horn I've ever heard the entire 4 hour ride. Even when there was nothing in front of us. Amazingly, our upcoming bus adventures have the worst horror stories of all, written about by many soured travelers. I hope you look forward to the stories, at least! :)
We're reluctant to leave and continue on the roughest transit through Laos and Cambodia, but we should soon enough. There's only so long you should allow yourself to stare at pretty clothes and drink coffee on the riverside...
PS: The last bus ride was horrific. "Sleeper buses" did not agree with us. There were two "beds" left in the back row when we boarded, both of which (and a third) taken up by an extremely large, irritable and intimidating Asian man. He refused to move over for us when we woke him, so after another bed was emptied I had no choice but to leave the scrunched back row to Kevin and three strangers. Of course, the journey took 4 hours longer than expected. Then we boarded a second bus later that afternoon, the driver of which insisted (as is the custom) on honking the loudest horn I've ever heard the entire 4 hour ride. Even when there was nothing in front of us. Amazingly, our upcoming bus adventures have the worst horror stories of all, written about by many soured travelers. I hope you look forward to the stories, at least! :)
Saturday, January 22, 2011
Phew.
Ninh Binh has not been the kindest to us.
Beginning with the train. We were the only foreigners on it, so it seemed, and just before our stop, the conductor firmly poked my arm and allerted me "Ninh Binh!" as he walked by. we started to get our bags ready but were unsure of which direction to go from there, which ended in the condoctor running back and yelling at us in Viatnemese to get the hell off, to the laughter of the entire train as we bashfully ran out from the wrong direction.
Things didn't get much easier from there. No real map apparently exists of this city and we wandered for over an hour searching for the streets our trusty notes told us we'd find one of our guesthouse options. We finally found one one a bit pricier and less homey than we'd like, but after hours of wandering with backpacks and getting unfriendly stares, it would do.
There are many natural wonders around this city, but móst are impossible to get to unless you hire a car (very expensive). There isn't any public transportation that could take us to any of our destinations, and we decided to rent bicycles and pedal off to the one adventure we could realistically make it to. Our first day went alright. We rode around the village and saw the limestone cliffs rising out of the rice paddys, then rode back to our hotel.
Today, we wandered the streets for another hour or so in search of a cheaper guesthouse before giving up and realizing we wouldn't make it to the national park an hour away (with a hired driver) or any of the other recommended hot spots, so we purchased the night bus to the next town for this evening.
After our decision to cut our losses and get out, we rented the bikes for our second ride out to the village. (An interesting place! Beautiful and mysterious. Many skittish dogs waiting to be cooked.)
This time, we purchased the highly reccommended boat trip through the caves (Tam Coc).
On our trip thus far, we've encountered many requests for money from most everyone around us in various tones and ways. Lately, it's gotten a bit more intense. Vietnamese people are a bit more obvious and pushy about it than Thai, so it seems.
After being told we had to pay a fee to park our bikes, we were ready for our boat journey. Our rowing man spoke to every other (there were many) boat rower that passed and judging from their laughter and suspicious looks at us I figured we may be the subject of conversation.
After a short way down river as he was schmoozing with the boat next to us, they suddenly rowed alongside and a Viatnamese woman hopped from their boat into ours.
Soon after, we were rowed alongside a boat selling drinks and snacks and told "Buy for your guides, Viatnamese gift!" So we bought a beer for our rower. Within minutes, the woman in our boat brought out item after item for us to purchase, after we told her we didn't have any more dollars to spend. "Yes! You have bucu money!" She repeatedly firmly poked us and showed us tablecloth after tablecloth, as we attempted in vainenjoy the view (for which we'd already payed "tourist fees"). Finally, we were approaching dry land. "Tip! Tip! Two tips! One for each!" I pointed to the beer, and they yelled "No! Tip!" We shook our heads and hoped they'd still let us off.
Thankfully, they did -- although another family ran away so panic stricken from their boat I'm not certain they got off as easily.
We were glared at, growled at and spat at by the local children (who I sadly also saw throw things at a miserable chained up monkey... "cultural differences"...)
After seeing a mountaintop temple, being hassled by 3 more people for various "tips" we felt obligated to give, dinner at one of the many local joints with Dog, Cat, and Goat Penis on the menu, we were ready to head back.
Though I knew we'd experience many different and educational cultural experiences, some places you just don't feel you are wanted in for long.
As Kevin said, this trip isn't always necessarily "fun". We have essentially one outfit each (we really need to do laundry) and though we've been told these countries are "welcoming" to tourists, I think a lot of the people here resent our presence. I am intrigued by their culture and awed by all the beauty, but sometimes it feels like we are awkward gawkers staring as they attempt to live out their lives.
I hope the people we encounter in our near future don't mind our curiousity, and again look forward (after the 10 hour bus ride that awaits us) to the next destination.
Beginning with the train. We were the only foreigners on it, so it seemed, and just before our stop, the conductor firmly poked my arm and allerted me "Ninh Binh!" as he walked by. we started to get our bags ready but were unsure of which direction to go from there, which ended in the condoctor running back and yelling at us in Viatnemese to get the hell off, to the laughter of the entire train as we bashfully ran out from the wrong direction.
Things didn't get much easier from there. No real map apparently exists of this city and we wandered for over an hour searching for the streets our trusty notes told us we'd find one of our guesthouse options. We finally found one one a bit pricier and less homey than we'd like, but after hours of wandering with backpacks and getting unfriendly stares, it would do.
There are many natural wonders around this city, but móst are impossible to get to unless you hire a car (very expensive). There isn't any public transportation that could take us to any of our destinations, and we decided to rent bicycles and pedal off to the one adventure we could realistically make it to. Our first day went alright. We rode around the village and saw the limestone cliffs rising out of the rice paddys, then rode back to our hotel.
Today, we wandered the streets for another hour or so in search of a cheaper guesthouse before giving up and realizing we wouldn't make it to the national park an hour away (with a hired driver) or any of the other recommended hot spots, so we purchased the night bus to the next town for this evening.
After our decision to cut our losses and get out, we rented the bikes for our second ride out to the village. (An interesting place! Beautiful and mysterious. Many skittish dogs waiting to be cooked.)
This time, we purchased the highly reccommended boat trip through the caves (Tam Coc).
On our trip thus far, we've encountered many requests for money from most everyone around us in various tones and ways. Lately, it's gotten a bit more intense. Vietnamese people are a bit more obvious and pushy about it than Thai, so it seems.
After being told we had to pay a fee to park our bikes, we were ready for our boat journey. Our rowing man spoke to every other (there were many) boat rower that passed and judging from their laughter and suspicious looks at us I figured we may be the subject of conversation.
After a short way down river as he was schmoozing with the boat next to us, they suddenly rowed alongside and a Viatnamese woman hopped from their boat into ours.
Soon after, we were rowed alongside a boat selling drinks and snacks and told "Buy for your guides, Viatnamese gift!" So we bought a beer for our rower. Within minutes, the woman in our boat brought out item after item for us to purchase, after we told her we didn't have any more dollars to spend. "Yes! You have bucu money!" She repeatedly firmly poked us and showed us tablecloth after tablecloth, as we attempted in vainenjoy the view (for which we'd already payed "tourist fees"). Finally, we were approaching dry land. "Tip! Tip! Two tips! One for each!" I pointed to the beer, and they yelled "No! Tip!" We shook our heads and hoped they'd still let us off.
Thankfully, they did -- although another family ran away so panic stricken from their boat I'm not certain they got off as easily.
We were glared at, growled at and spat at by the local children (who I sadly also saw throw things at a miserable chained up monkey... "cultural differences"...)
After seeing a mountaintop temple, being hassled by 3 more people for various "tips" we felt obligated to give, dinner at one of the many local joints with Dog, Cat, and Goat Penis on the menu, we were ready to head back.
Though I knew we'd experience many different and educational cultural experiences, some places you just don't feel you are wanted in for long.
As Kevin said, this trip isn't always necessarily "fun". We have essentially one outfit each (we really need to do laundry) and though we've been told these countries are "welcoming" to tourists, I think a lot of the people here resent our presence. I am intrigued by their culture and awed by all the beauty, but sometimes it feels like we are awkward gawkers staring as they attempt to live out their lives.
I hope the people we encounter in our near future don't mind our curiousity, and again look forward (after the 10 hour bus ride that awaits us) to the next destination.
Thursday, January 20, 2011
Good morning, Vietnam!
Writing from the capitol, Hanoi!
The streets are insane here. More motorbikes than you can imagine, coming straight at each other from every direction (and honking) constantly. The guidebook warns: when you must cross the street, don't run and don't panic. Just go at a slow and steady pace and they will whiz around you... and it's true. It's quite a skill to walk directly into the path of dozens of speeding automobiles and remain calm. I'm pretty good!
Our adventure to Vietnam was quite strenuous. We left the island (Ko Chang) Tuesday morning -- taxi to ferry to 5 hour bus back to Bangkok (which became closer to a 6 hour bus when we needed to pull over to fix the tire). We wandered the streets and walked as close as we could to the airport before hopping in a cab, arrived at the airport sometime around midnight and strolled the insanely swanky halls before going to "sleep" for the night around 3am.
We were a bit nervous about our flight to Hanoi -- we bought a budget airline ticket from Asia Airways, and read some slightly nerve racking reviews. Surprisingly, our 6:50am flight was the most comfortable relaxed transit yet! (And though one review mentioned it was "the worst flight attendant eye candy in Asia", they turned out to be quite the opposite too... with adorable outfits to boot!)
Immediately after landing, we realized: It's freezing here! My 1 long sleeved shirt underneath my t-shirt underneath my all-purpose fleece is not quite doing the trick in the 50 degree weather, especially after flying in from the 40-50 degree warmer climate. (I bet that'll get me in trouble, I know it's much worse back home.. but you're wearing a winter coat and hat! ;)
Vietnam is amazing. We've only been here for 2 days, but already the culture, architecture and vibe of this country has sparked a real excitement in me, the most on the trip so far.
We decided to splurge ($18 a night) on a beautiful old room, complete with bath, tv, fridge and balcony.
Today was eventful:
-We saw Ho Chi Minh! Really. In the flesh. He looks great! (Amazing/intimidating experience)
- We went to the "Hanoi Hilton" where the American prisoners were held.
(Fascinating. Inside the prison the information is almost entirely about the cruelty inflicted on the Vietnamese by the French colonialists who built it... the section on their usage of the prison (containing John McCain's uniform) is small and never mentioned until the very end. It mostly speaks to how hard they worked at making life in prison as enjoyable for the Americans as possible.)
Tomorrow we venture south to Ninh Binh.
This loud insane city has been thrilling, but it's time for some rice paddies!
The streets are insane here. More motorbikes than you can imagine, coming straight at each other from every direction (and honking) constantly. The guidebook warns: when you must cross the street, don't run and don't panic. Just go at a slow and steady pace and they will whiz around you... and it's true. It's quite a skill to walk directly into the path of dozens of speeding automobiles and remain calm. I'm pretty good!
Our adventure to Vietnam was quite strenuous. We left the island (Ko Chang) Tuesday morning -- taxi to ferry to 5 hour bus back to Bangkok (which became closer to a 6 hour bus when we needed to pull over to fix the tire). We wandered the streets and walked as close as we could to the airport before hopping in a cab, arrived at the airport sometime around midnight and strolled the insanely swanky halls before going to "sleep" for the night around 3am.
We were a bit nervous about our flight to Hanoi -- we bought a budget airline ticket from Asia Airways, and read some slightly nerve racking reviews. Surprisingly, our 6:50am flight was the most comfortable relaxed transit yet! (And though one review mentioned it was "the worst flight attendant eye candy in Asia", they turned out to be quite the opposite too... with adorable outfits to boot!)
Immediately after landing, we realized: It's freezing here! My 1 long sleeved shirt underneath my t-shirt underneath my all-purpose fleece is not quite doing the trick in the 50 degree weather, especially after flying in from the 40-50 degree warmer climate. (I bet that'll get me in trouble, I know it's much worse back home.. but you're wearing a winter coat and hat! ;)
Vietnam is amazing. We've only been here for 2 days, but already the culture, architecture and vibe of this country has sparked a real excitement in me, the most on the trip so far.
We decided to splurge ($18 a night) on a beautiful old room, complete with bath, tv, fridge and balcony.
Today was eventful:
-We saw Ho Chi Minh! Really. In the flesh. He looks great! (Amazing/intimidating experience)
- We went to the "Hanoi Hilton" where the American prisoners were held.
(Fascinating. Inside the prison the information is almost entirely about the cruelty inflicted on the Vietnamese by the French colonialists who built it... the section on their usage of the prison (containing John McCain's uniform) is small and never mentioned until the very end. It mostly speaks to how hard they worked at making life in prison as enjoyable for the Americans as possible.)
Tomorrow we venture south to Ninh Binh.
This loud insane city has been thrilling, but it's time for some rice paddies!
Monday, January 17, 2011
Snorkeling and wild monkeys!
Just got back from our snorkel trip! The only bad thing to come of it being I now have a rash that reaches from my ankle to my thigh up the back of my leg with a white mark in the middle. Google seems to think it's fire corral. Good thing Jan thought of everything for our med kit and I'm aloe-d and itch cream-ed up.
After the boat took us out to sea an hour or so and we snorkeled at a few different locations, we happened to stop by an island filled with wild monkeys on the way back! I'm not sure that I've ever experienced anything more exciting. Goodness knows how I love them wild monkeys.
Tomorrow we catch the bus back to Bangkok and then on to Hanoi, Vietnam the following morning.
Hope all is well back in the homeland!
(This country is filled with foreigners, but none of them seem to be American! As the manager of a restaurant we ate at said, "We don't see Americans so much lately, I thought you must be from Ukraine or somewhere. Things don't go so well there with the jobs? Do you know Obama? Does he live nearby? Why you don't you go to him and talk with him about it? You even shake his hand? No? He must be busy. Our prime minister sometimes is busy too. Hm.")
After the boat took us out to sea an hour or so and we snorkeled at a few different locations, we happened to stop by an island filled with wild monkeys on the way back! I'm not sure that I've ever experienced anything more exciting. Goodness knows how I love them wild monkeys.
Tomorrow we catch the bus back to Bangkok and then on to Hanoi, Vietnam the following morning.
Hope all is well back in the homeland!
(This country is filled with foreigners, but none of them seem to be American! As the manager of a restaurant we ate at said, "We don't see Americans so much lately, I thought you must be from Ukraine or somewhere. Things don't go so well there with the jobs? Do you know Obama? Does he live nearby? Why you don't you go to him and talk with him about it? You even shake his hand? No? He must be busy. Our prime minister sometimes is busy too. Hm.")
Sunday, January 16, 2011
Ko Chang
Sawadee Ka.
So, day two in Bangkok was better then day one. We stuck to ourselves and walked the city. We walked to the Grand Palace, but decided against paying to go in (there are just so many pretty free buildings..). Then we continued on to Wat Pho, which was beautiful. (Pictures to come)
After a delicious drink straight outta the coconut, we hopped on a ferry across the river to Wat Arun actually thinking it was the boat down river. This turned out well, as Wat Arun is beautiful and terrifying to climb (which we did -- down is worse). We walked through Chinatown, which is extraordinarilly intimidating compared to the one in New York.
The following morning we took a bus to the Island Ko Chang. It's our second full day here and I'm about to go on a snorkeling trip. More soon!
So, day two in Bangkok was better then day one. We stuck to ourselves and walked the city. We walked to the Grand Palace, but decided against paying to go in (there are just so many pretty free buildings..). Then we continued on to Wat Pho, which was beautiful. (Pictures to come)
After a delicious drink straight outta the coconut, we hopped on a ferry across the river to Wat Arun actually thinking it was the boat down river. This turned out well, as Wat Arun is beautiful and terrifying to climb (which we did -- down is worse). We walked through Chinatown, which is extraordinarilly intimidating compared to the one in New York.
The following morning we took a bus to the Island Ko Chang. It's our second full day here and I'm about to go on a snorkeling trip. More soon!
Thursday, January 13, 2011
1st day, 1st scam.
Oh, how embarrassing. There are scam warnings in the guidebooks and from friends who have come before, and yet our very first day, us 'farang' (silly foreigners!) are poorer and much more downtrodden then we were when we first awoke.
So. After a 4.5 hour flight delay and two extremely cramped aircrafts later, we landed in this wild city. We were nervous. Even a bit worried our taxi driver could take us to a dark alley and we'd never be seen again. (We were advised by someone prior to direct our cabby specifically and be sure of where we were going, but that's a bit difficult when you've been flying for 22 hours straight and can't read Thai road signs...) However, he was a gentleman and took us to our pre-arranged guesthouse, assuring us 'you are already good at Thai language, by the end of 5 weeks you learn Thai, 10%!'
We slept a fitful few hours and were ready to explore. We enjoy wandering around, choosing our own adventures and discovering the city as best we can on our own. Although we don't mind a kind stranger stopping to give us some advice and friendly suggestions for our itinerary.
This man (nicknamed Chai), wrote us out a list of 6 places to stop, informing us today was 'Buddha Day' and there were 'free events and wat (temple) visits'. He told us to find a yellow licensed 'Government Tuk-Tuk' and that the driver would take us to the wats etc. for only 20baht (less than 1$!) due to the holiday. (Ashamed on our behalf? You simply MUST see those charming Thai smiles up close before you judge us softies.)
SO! A Tuk-Tuk conveniently pulls up and our friend shows him our list and explains to him in Thai everywhere we should go, having him first agree to our low price. Before we're quite certain what's happening, we are ushered into the back of the Tuk-Tuk.
Quote of the day, 'I can't believe how NICE these people are!' Tuk-Tuk man is no exception. He began to take us everywhere on our list, assuring us we could 'take our time' and he would wait.
It wasn't until he took us to the 2nd trap on our list (giant suit or jewelry consignment stores where the employees would stick to your side and stare you down waiting for you to buy thousands of dollars worth of silk ties and rubys) we realized he wasn't quite on the level. He assured us the government would reimburse his gas money if we'd stay in each tourist store for 10 minutes. ''Don't like, don't buy'' he assured us. They were all equally the worst minutes of our lives.
Typing this now has finally made us stop wanting to cry, and finally begin to laugh at our obvious foreign-land-foolishness. We aren't laughing hard, however.
Trust me, when you're this culture shocked and people are so friendly, it's easy to be taken in at first.
It gets worse.. (Please forgive me Papa, you taught me much better, I know.)
The kind Mr. Chai on the street (who we thought we just ADORED!) told us to go to tourist agency TAT to buy our train tickets to Chang Mai, where we planned to head the next evening.
TAT is a government subsidiary put in place to help us confused farangs. They are professionals at what they do...apparently, that's scamming (at least at this location?).
We arrive at TAT and a lovely man named 'Chris' (ha...) told us that it was cheapest and easiest to plan our Chang Mai excursion then and there. I asked, 'Can't we go to the train station for this?' He said it's the same price everywhere. He also calculated all of the expenses in a logical manner with his handy calculator, and informed us trekking outside the city on our own without a tour was against the law. We didn't know the area, speak the language, or know how to deal with wild monkeys and giant spiders.
This is true.
Needless to say, he 'booked' our train there, guest house, trek tour (including elephant rides, long neck tribe visit and bamboo rafting, which was our hope) as well as our bus back to Bangkok 4 days later.
The price seemed a bit steep, but we thought about it and with the calculations and amount of time and travel, it seemed to make sense.
After we left, our hearts began to pound a bit faster. Not just because we were taken to our 4th jewelry store and then left at a Wat by Mr. Tuk-Tuk before we payed him.
All in all, not the most successful first day of vacation.
We somehow found our way on foot all the way back to our guesthouse (Kevin's gift of course, not mine... I can't believe his sense of direction works on the other side of the planet) and did some Internet research.
...TAT = SCAM.
We canceled our plans for a much needed nap and rushed back to 'Chris'. We told him my Mother fell ill and we needed to go back to USA right away, no time for tours! Money back please?
We were able to puppy eye back some of the fees, and were told if we come back with a legit ticket back home within 2 days, he'd give us more. How ironic... he didn't trust us.
Now, we are left with less money and 0 train tickets/tours. Where to next, who can say. Change of plans may be in order.
So, we live. We learn (use a credit card!). And we saw some pretty Buddhas.
We'll get better, we know we will.
Kevin says these types of things are always a baptism by fire, they work no other way. His thoughts on Bangkok? ''Get me out of here!''
But I assure him (and myself) tomorrow is a new day.
So. After a 4.5 hour flight delay and two extremely cramped aircrafts later, we landed in this wild city. We were nervous. Even a bit worried our taxi driver could take us to a dark alley and we'd never be seen again. (We were advised by someone prior to direct our cabby specifically and be sure of where we were going, but that's a bit difficult when you've been flying for 22 hours straight and can't read Thai road signs...) However, he was a gentleman and took us to our pre-arranged guesthouse, assuring us 'you are already good at Thai language, by the end of 5 weeks you learn Thai, 10%!'
We slept a fitful few hours and were ready to explore. We enjoy wandering around, choosing our own adventures and discovering the city as best we can on our own. Although we don't mind a kind stranger stopping to give us some advice and friendly suggestions for our itinerary.
This man (nicknamed Chai), wrote us out a list of 6 places to stop, informing us today was 'Buddha Day' and there were 'free events and wat (temple) visits'. He told us to find a yellow licensed 'Government Tuk-Tuk' and that the driver would take us to the wats etc. for only 20baht (less than 1$!) due to the holiday. (Ashamed on our behalf? You simply MUST see those charming Thai smiles up close before you judge us softies.)
SO! A Tuk-Tuk conveniently pulls up and our friend shows him our list and explains to him in Thai everywhere we should go, having him first agree to our low price. Before we're quite certain what's happening, we are ushered into the back of the Tuk-Tuk.
Quote of the day, 'I can't believe how NICE these people are!' Tuk-Tuk man is no exception. He began to take us everywhere on our list, assuring us we could 'take our time' and he would wait.
It wasn't until he took us to the 2nd trap on our list (giant suit or jewelry consignment stores where the employees would stick to your side and stare you down waiting for you to buy thousands of dollars worth of silk ties and rubys) we realized he wasn't quite on the level. He assured us the government would reimburse his gas money if we'd stay in each tourist store for 10 minutes. ''Don't like, don't buy'' he assured us. They were all equally the worst minutes of our lives.
Typing this now has finally made us stop wanting to cry, and finally begin to laugh at our obvious foreign-land-foolishness. We aren't laughing hard, however.
Trust me, when you're this culture shocked and people are so friendly, it's easy to be taken in at first.
It gets worse.. (Please forgive me Papa, you taught me much better, I know.)
The kind Mr. Chai on the street (who we thought we just ADORED!) told us to go to tourist agency TAT to buy our train tickets to Chang Mai, where we planned to head the next evening.
TAT is a government subsidiary put in place to help us confused farangs. They are professionals at what they do...apparently, that's scamming (at least at this location?).
We arrive at TAT and a lovely man named 'Chris' (ha...) told us that it was cheapest and easiest to plan our Chang Mai excursion then and there. I asked, 'Can't we go to the train station for this?' He said it's the same price everywhere. He also calculated all of the expenses in a logical manner with his handy calculator, and informed us trekking outside the city on our own without a tour was against the law. We didn't know the area, speak the language, or know how to deal with wild monkeys and giant spiders.
This is true.
Needless to say, he 'booked' our train there, guest house, trek tour (including elephant rides, long neck tribe visit and bamboo rafting, which was our hope) as well as our bus back to Bangkok 4 days later.
The price seemed a bit steep, but we thought about it and with the calculations and amount of time and travel, it seemed to make sense.
After we left, our hearts began to pound a bit faster. Not just because we were taken to our 4th jewelry store and then left at a Wat by Mr. Tuk-Tuk before we payed him.
All in all, not the most successful first day of vacation.
We somehow found our way on foot all the way back to our guesthouse (Kevin's gift of course, not mine... I can't believe his sense of direction works on the other side of the planet) and did some Internet research.
...TAT = SCAM.
We canceled our plans for a much needed nap and rushed back to 'Chris'. We told him my Mother fell ill and we needed to go back to USA right away, no time for tours! Money back please?
We were able to puppy eye back some of the fees, and were told if we come back with a legit ticket back home within 2 days, he'd give us more. How ironic... he didn't trust us.
Now, we are left with less money and 0 train tickets/tours. Where to next, who can say. Change of plans may be in order.
So, we live. We learn (use a credit card!). And we saw some pretty Buddhas.
We'll get better, we know we will.
Kevin says these types of things are always a baptism by fire, they work no other way. His thoughts on Bangkok? ''Get me out of here!''
But I assure him (and myself) tomorrow is a new day.
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