Hoi An is lovely. Really, really lovely. Yes, it is completely full of tourists (as the snooty travelers scoff). Because it's great. The architecture is amazing, there are delicious restaurants everywhere you turn, beautiful shops, happy friendly dogs (they don't cook them around here) and friendly people (mostly smiling and calling "Hello, you buy something!" from their doorway).
We're reluctant to leave and continue on the roughest transit through Laos and Cambodia, but we should soon enough. There's only so long you should allow yourself to stare at pretty clothes and drink coffee on the riverside...
PS: The last bus ride was horrific. "Sleeper buses" did not agree with us. There were two "beds" left in the back row when we boarded, both of which (and a third) taken up by an extremely large, irritable and intimidating Asian man. He refused to move over for us when we woke him, so after another bed was emptied I had no choice but to leave the scrunched back row to Kevin and three strangers. Of course, the journey took 4 hours longer than expected. Then we boarded a second bus later that afternoon, the driver of which insisted (as is the custom) on honking the loudest horn I've ever heard the entire 4 hour ride. Even when there was nothing in front of us. Amazingly, our upcoming bus adventures have the worst horror stories of all, written about by many soured travelers. I hope you look forward to the stories, at least! :)
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